4 easy steps for optimum scalp health

Scalp Care Script

Are you tired of facing problems like an itchy scalp, thinning & dry hair, and even breakage?

Maybe you constantly watch all those videos online about those perfect curly, coily, textured hair, and no matter what you do, you don’t get the same results.

If you have tried various shampoos and treatments for healthy hair, but nothing has proven to be successful, you are in the right place.

The most important factor behind achieving healthy hair growth is having a healthy scalp. The scalp is skin! Do you have the same routine for your scalp as the one for your skin? I didn’t think so, and it is ok, but it should not be completely neglected.

Whatever your hair goal: health, length, volume, hydration, strength…. These simple tips will help you achieve them.

Hi! I am Sandra, and I am French-Burkinabe. I have a dual post-graduate education in Cosmetic Science and Marketing. I have worked in the beauty industry for nearly 20 years now in Paris, London, and New York.

I want to share with you some basic knowledge and steps you can and should take for optimum scalp health.

Before I share 4 easy steps to take care of your scalp, let me quickly explain how the scalp works because to understand its importance, you need to know its structure and how it functions.

Your scalp is just like the soil of a farm. We know that poor soil affects the well-being of plants growing in it.

By the way, did you know that the SCALP describes the 5 layers it is composed of?

S – skin​​​​​​​​

C – connective tissue​​​​​​​​

A – aponeurosis​​​​​​​​

L – loose connective tissue​​​​​​​​

P – pericranium or periosteum​​​​​​​​

Anyway, just like your skin, the scalp serves as a physical barrier to protect your body, and it is where your hair grows from!

And just like your skin, it renews daily, needs hydration, loses elasticity over time, dries out in cold weather, and sweats in hot climates.

Scalp hair come through structures known as hair follicles found in the scalp’s dermis. The hair follicle itself is ‘nourished’ by a rich nervous and vascular network necessary to supply the essential elements for hair growth.

So, one thing is for sure that it’s just as important to care for your scalp so your hair can grow on a healthy base, but it can also stimulate healthy hair growth.

Now let’s understand the hair anatomy and the role the scalp has.

Each hair strand is made of a protein known as keratin, which occurs naturally in our body. The keratin-rich fibers have two parts: the hair shaft and the hair follicle.

The shaft is the portion of hair on your head that is visible.

Whereas the follicle lies below your skin and it’s not visible.

The follicle is made up of blood vessels and nerves. It needs nourishment from our body to grow and stay healthy. The nutrients to hair are supplied through the scalp. So, it’s evident that for healthy hair, you need to have a healthy scalp.

Now next to the hair follicle, we have the little glands called the sebaceous glands. Which again are similar to the one you have on your face, which can lead to oily skin.

Right, that gland delivers ‘sebum,’ which is a mixture of oil and water that goes down your hair shaft and helps to keep it moisturized.

When you have curly hair texture, chances are that there isn’t enough sebum to go around the various curls; this is why textured hair tends to be drier than straight hair!

If you don’t take effective care of your scalp, your follicles will be affected, and your curls may not be as strong, healthy, and hydrated as you’d like.

Now, you might be thinking, ok, I understand the importance of a healthy scalp and how it helps in having beautiful curls and coils. But how to know if my scalp is healthy and what are the different ways to take good care of my scalp?

Those are signs that you might have an unbalanced scalp.

  • Itchiness
  • Scalp dryness / dandruff / flakiness
  • Oiliness / acne
  • Scabs
  • Dry & brittle hair
  • Thinning hair
  • Pain when you touch your hair

Any of these symptoms can be a sign that your scalp needs a little TLC.

Now let’s look at the 4 basics way to maintain a healthy and balanced scalp, which by the way, can be done while you take care of your hair; it isn’t about adding more to your overall routine:











Step 1


This alone will make a huge difference, especially if you use a lot of styling products.

Just like your skin, a regular exfoliation routine is beneficial for your scalp. Products like styling mousse or commercial conditioners are the common causes of buildup, like dead skin, sebum, and sweat.

There are 3 types of exfoliations:

  • Enzyme: such as papain (which can be found in pineapple), very mild and not very common for hair care
  • Physical or scrubs: you know when you feel ‘beads,’ this is what it means. Mostly you should stick to sugar or salt, as they rinse off easily
  • Chemical: you may have heard of hydroxy acids, such as salicylic and mandelic glycolic. No? Well, those are commonly used in skincare.

If you are new to exfoliation, stick to scrubs!

I recommend exfoliating at least once a month and building it up to weekly if you can.

Step 2


It seems pretty obvious, but I know how we Black people love to skip wash day, especially if we have a protective style on!

Wash your hair weekly, no matter what.

Alternate your favorite shampoo with a deeper cleanse, like black soap or clarifying shampoo, to really get rid of the buildup.

It is ok to have a favorite shampoo! You don’t have to give up everything you like, just alternate with the things you need!

Step 3


Now there are a few ways of doing that!

You can mask your scalp, yes, sis! In the same way, you mask your hair, scalp masks are great for detox, especially clay-based masks that work wonders on the scalp!

And you can use serums or oils. So now, do you need to use oil everyday on your scalp? Probably not.

As I mentioned before, your hair’s natural oil system is the ‘sebum’ which is a blend of fat and water; it is not a stretch to think that your scalp can benefit from extra oil if it is dry.

Don’t overlook water-based serum, which can deliver great hydration and treat certain conditions such as an oily scalp. There is more to life than oil and grease on your scalp!

step 4


Please take time to massage your scalp. You can do it in the shower, when you shampoo, when you mask, and when you apply your nourishing product

Do not underestimate the power of massage; it stimulates circulation, and we talked about how the hair gets nourishment from the vascular system.

So now let’s talk about the specifics of ingredients to avoid and those to look out for.

Ingredients to avoid minimizing irritation:

  • Sulfates are the most common ingredients used in shampoo; they are known for stripping out the skin/scalp from the protective layer, which is why we recommend not using them
  • Preservatives: without trying to be too technical, just stick to
  • Alcohol: can dry out the scalp and cause irritation
  • Sodium hydroxide: commonly found in relaxers
  • Fragrance: natural or not, fragrances commonly contain allergens, which can cause irritation; if you are sensitive to fragrance, try to stay away from it.

What to look for:

  • Exfoliation: sugar, salt, coffee (harder to rinse), mild hydroxy acid
  • Wash: black soap, apple cider vinegar, tea tree extract

(note that clarifying shampoo are mean to be a bit more aggressive, this is why I prefer black soap, as it provides deep cleansing while being mild to the scalp and hair)

  • Nourish: clay, chebe powder, non-comodogenic oils such as jojoba, sweet almond, and castor oil

So, just a quick note on styling!

The easiest would be to just leave your hair alone, wild and free, but we are not gonna do that, right?

  • For natural hairstyle:
    • Avoid brushing your hair when dry to minimize the tension
  • For protective styles:
    • Try not to pull on your hair so bad; ask the stylist to be mindful
    • Some of the synthetic hair used for braiding can cause irritation, buy your own hair and wash it before you have it installed.
    • If you wear a weave, avoid putting a net all over your head so you can still access your scalp.
    • You can still exfoliate! Chemical is probably easier
    • Continue to wash your hair weekly!
    • Use oils and serum; you do not need to do it more often. A few times a week is enough
  • For chemically treated hair
    • Try to limit the amount of time the chemical is in contact with your scalp.
    • Limit how often you chemically treat your hair
  • And regardless of your style, cover your head when it’s sunny, cold or if it is highly polluted. If you go to our website’s “brand spotlight” section, we recommend some very cool stylish brands that can help with that!

Et Voila, that was a quick webinar on scalp health and care.

I offer free 20min consultation if you want to review your products in detail.

Here is a 15% discount code: SCALPCARE15 to apply to your next order

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